Fixing a Faucet that is Washer-type

Washer-type faucets work simply with a rubber washer that closes onto a metal washer seat. The washer can become hardened, worn out or the seat wears out, causing the faucet to begin leaking. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet, and it will ultimately need to be replaced.

To repair the leak, first be sure to turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, you can just turn off the water at that point, otherwise you will have to turn off the water at the main house shutoff valve which is probably in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Also turn off the hot water supply at the water heater as well.

When taking the faucet apart by removing the handle, which may not be necessary on some older faucets, be careful and try not to damage anything, especially the finish on any fixture or decorative parts of the faucet.

You can loosen the Phillips-head screw, which is usually located beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you carefully pry it up with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, always first pad them with some electrical tape or cloth so you can protect the finish, and prevent it from getting all scratched up. Always take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets, they can get damaged very easily!

Now you can lift or pry the handle off the broached stem. You unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove that stem carefully by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it. Clean any chips or debris from the faucet cavity, but do not use any harsh abrasives or a metal file. Then carefully examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, then you should take it to your local retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem thoroughly if it is dirty.

Look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and is held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn out in it, then you should certainly replace it, and this should be able to stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your hardware dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, also replace it with a brand new brass screw.

Now the washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not very expensive and can be bought at your local home center or hardware store. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one of these so if you are the homeowner, you might as well buy one to keep with your other tools for do-it-yourself repairs. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's exact directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate until the seat is smooth, and blow away the chips.

Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or if it is slotted for a screwdriver; if it is, then it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, then it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool.

To replace it, you will need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, and clockwise to tighten. Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repair jobs.

It is very important to install the correct type of faucet washer. A swiveling washer is preferable. To install the swiveling washer style, file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, friction-less action, which allows it to outlast most fixed washers.

Following the seat and washer service, your faucet should be just like new. Put all of the parts back together in the exact reverse order of how you took them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.

If the faucet only leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install a newer nylon-covered or graphite packing because their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut. Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing, and for these stems, just replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Carefully hand tighten the packing nut, and then carefully tighten it another half-turn.

These tips are provided by your friends at www.MasterFaucet.com your best source for anything kitchen or bathroom related!

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